The most important thing to improve your performance and performance is to work on a flat, smooth, wide surface that stays put. That's what the workbench is for. But what if you're not from your couch? We all built a set out of boxes and plywood with clamps in various positions to replace the vise.
We can do better. To that end, we humbly present this mobile computer that costs a few dollars. It consists of a 24" x 80" hollow door covered with sheet material. In our case, the paneling was a shell of medium-density 1⁄2-inch Douglas fir, or MDO, plywood. Both sides of the plywood are covered with kraft paper impregnated with phenolic resin. We equipped our work surface with a vise and handle for easy woodworking and made a mounting base for the repurposed vise that allows for quick positioning.
Honestly, you don't need this thing to chop wood or lay out parts. A jack and plywood work for this. This platform can't even stand up to a 4x4 wooden workbench and a rolling pin pushed up against the wall. Vice does not condone or stop this abuse. On the other hand, this work plan is mobile. It is designed and built for moderate versatility: electrical and plumbing installations, repairs, light and medium wood or metal work, simple bevel cuts or painting and paneling. It works great for weird stuff. A few years ago I volunteered to fix a wheelchair in an alley. Boy, how could I use that table back then.
This project is easy to make and quite durable. It weighs 50.1 pounds. It stays in place while you work on it and sits easily on top of multiple boxes. When it is not in use, you can put it in a corner.
Here are some of the tools and materials you'll need to create, but don't limit yourself to what we show. If you have one, use a recycled door and mount it on plywood, fiberboard, or chipboard until you can attach the pieces so that they are flush. Plan to flip the upper level one day. Years of use will make this top layer look like a chew toy. Two key elements: The finished project should not be unrealistic or complicated. Most of the size and weight of our surface is almost easy to move and adjust.
Overview of mobile tabletop equipment and material designsThis project is as easy as woodworking. You got it. Take your time and aim for clean, precise cuts and proper screw spacing. Apply the MDO to the top of the door (it doesn't matter which side you call "top" or "bottom"). Then use the rest of the MDO board to reinforce the opposite side. If you plan to install a vise, do it later. Finally attach the handle. To do this, you need to find a balance point, as the weight of the work surface tilts the vise end. Place the work surface on the edge of the wood block (I used a 2 x 4) and slide it to the side until it is level. Use a level and draw a line with a pencil to mark from the center of the block to the top of the door. Center the handle on the line.
On top of the work surfaceA hollow door is basically a thin box. An air space between the top and bottom layers and a central honeycomb element supported by two thin strips of softwood running along the edges to reinforce the area around the handles and hinges. The top and bottom ends are connected by a fiber block that does not hold screws. So, to attach the sheet to the top surface, drill a series of 1⁄16-inch holes, each spaced 10 inches along the two long sides. Use a countersink to make an indentation for the screw head at each location, then carefully drive a 1-1⁄4-inch drywall screw into each hole. Tighten these screws very carefully; Otherwise you will break the edge block.
Strengthen your backIt is not necessary to cover both sides of the work surface, but you should reinforce the back sides, as this is where cuts will occur, for example, when cutting, drilling or shaping a piece of wood or metal. including the router. The clamp (preferably a C-clamp) is strong enough to pierce the skin of the door.
To solve this problem and reduce the weight gain by removing the entire back of the door, I cut 3 1⁄2 inch wide MDO plywood. I cut these pieces to the desired length and screwed them to the door frame. I screwed an 8-1⁄2" by 14" rectangle of MDO where the vise will mount. I used drywall screws where they met the softwood on the edge of the door, and the special Simpson Strong Tie screws mentioned above for the attachment elsewhere (where the screws just grip the door skin). These are expensive fasteners and I used them sparingly, but they are extremely strong. Wherever you use them, drill a 1⁄16-inch screwdriver and tighten these screws by hand. They hold firmly even on thin and soft materials, such as the plywood veneer from which the front and back parts of the door are made.
Attach the MDO plywood around the perimeter of the door to prevent the clip from piercing the door skin. The wood clips (pictured) are quite strong on this surface, but if you use a metal C-clamp, they are strong enough to easily slip through the door skin and into the back cavity.personal
You can grip the work surface with the handle (shown), but the MDO reinforcing strips around the perimeter of the back surface provide extra grip.personal
Vice CouncilWe used an inexpensive carpenter's vise on the corner of the work surface and found that the bottom mounting flange was so thin that its holes were dangerously close to the edge of the work surface. This makes it very difficult to drill the two ¼ inch diameter holes that will be used to mount the vise. The WEN screw listed in the bill of materials (not the one we use) has a larger flange and provides a more secure grip, even though it weighs a few pounds more.
We had a hard time getting the small wood screw onto the work surface. Note that its mounting flanges place the mounting holes very close to the edges. Although the 1/4"-28 machine screws seem to provide a tight connection, we don't know if they will ever come loose due to their close proximity. If we were making a different work surface, we would choose a different vise (eg model WEN listed in our materials list) or design a different mounting method.personal
We made a T-block and installed the repaired vise on it. The layout increases the capacity of the work surface.personal
SummaryWe are very pleased with what we call the ultimate desktop. It is quite powerful and versatile. If you have a well-stocked shop, you can do this in an hour or less. If you put a heavy load on it (like a 70-pound miter saw), it will need support in the form of two 2x4s facing up to cover the trestle. Also, if it's going to be outside a lot and you expect it to get wet a lot, I recommend applying a stylish varnish to the entire door (face, edges, and edges). Before starting work, we apply varnish, which turns the door into a rack.
When you are done, remove the top of the boxes, grab the handle and carry them to where you want to store them.decency
Roy Berendson Senior Home Writer Roy Berendson has worked for Popular Mechanics for over 25 years, where he has written about carpentry, masonry, painting, plumbing, electrical, woodworking, blacksmithing, welding, lawn care, chainsaw use and outdoor power tools.
